Early June 2010. Nagarahole Tiger Reserve, Karnataka. The forest is monsoon green. With me in the legendary ‘Main Watchtower’ is Chikanna, caretaker of the Kalhalla Forest Resthouse. From my vantage point, I am gifted with clear visibility thanks to three firebreaks. Just under 100 m. away, I can see the waterhole, which has offered naturalists some of the finest wildlife sightings imaginable.